Mango Shrimp Summer Rolls

For the dipping sauce:

3 Tablespoons Asian fish sauce

such as Thai nam pla or Vietnamese nuoc mam*

3 Tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 Tablespoons water

2 1/2 teaspoons packed brown sugar

For the rolls:

12 large shrimp in shell (21 to 25 per lb), peeled

3 ounces vermicelli rice-stick noodles (see note*)

3 Tablespoons rice vinegar

2 Tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

8 8-inch rice-paper rounds plus additional in case some tear*

48 fresh cilantro leaves (from about 1 bunch)

48 fresh mint leaves (from about 1 bunch)

1 seedless cucumber (usually plastic-wrapped; 1 lb),

peeled, cored, and cut into 1/8-inch-thick matchsticks

3 scallions, cut into 3-inch-long julienne strips

1 pound firm-ripe mango,

peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/8-inch-thick matchsticks

To make the sauce:

1. Stir together all sauce ingredients in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved.

To make the rolls:

1. Add shrimp to a 4- to 5-quart pot of boiling salted water, then reduce heat and poach shrimp at a bare simmer, uncovered, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes.

2. Transfer shrimp with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking, then return shrimp cooking water to a boil.

3. Chill shrimp in ice water 2 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Cut each shrimp in half lengthwise, deveining if necessary.

4. Add noodles to boiling water and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander, then rinse under cold running water and drain well.

5. Stir together vinegar, sugar, and salt in a large bowl until sugar is dissolved, then add noodles and toss to coat.

6. Put a double thickness of paper towel on a work surface and fill a shallow baking pan with warm water.

7. Check rice-paper rounds and use only those that have no holes. Soak 1 round in warm water until pliable, 30 seconds to 1 minute, then carefully transfer to paper towels.

8. Arrange 3 shrimp halves (cut sides up) in a row across bottom third (part nearest you) of soaked rice paper.

9. Spread 1/4 cup noodles on top of shrimp and arrange 3 cilantro leaves, 3 mint leaves, 8 cucumber matchsticks, 6 scallion strips, and 10 mango matchsticks horizontally on top of noodles. Fold bottom of rice paper over filling and begin rolling up tightly, stopping at halfway point.

10. Arrange 3 more mint leaves and 3 more cilantro leaves along crease, then fold in ends and continue rolling.

11. Transfer summer roll, seam side down, to a plate and cover with dampened paper towels.

12. Make 7 more rolls in same manner and serve, whole or halved diagonally, with dipping sauce.

Cooks' note:

Summer rolls can be made 4 hours ahead and chilled, covered with dampened paper towels and then with plastic wrap. Bring to room temperature before serving.

*Available at Asian markets and ethnicgrocer.com (866-438-4642).

Makes 8 first-course servings.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Source: Gourmet, May 2003