The Washington Post 
Wednesday, November 12, 1997
Food section


Menus for Those Who Can Take the Heat

by 
Joyce Dodson Piotrowski
Special to The Washington Post



I love to give dinner parties for friends who are adventurous
eaters. They're the ones I invite when I find ostrich tenderloins,
fiddlehead ferns or skate wings. And I have to admit that there
is a certain competitive zone I get into when I contemplate
dinner for these gourmands: Can I make something more
spectacular than they did last time? Can I outdo some local
chef? But mostly it's a matter of making something really
special.

Such as the dinner I did recently for some former neighbors
who were passing through town. I know that Jim and Elena
love hot food -- they grew up in the Southwest. But they've
also lived around the world and have very eclectic palates, as
long as the food is hot.

That left me with choices. I could cook a Southwest meal with
plenty of heat. On the other hand, some of the cooking of India
has the heat plus incredible layers of flavor in each dish, enough
to make my guests smile through the flames. Or I could try out
my new repertoire of Thai dishes -- elegant, hot, colorful and
interesting.

After writing down three tentative menus, I decided to give
three dinner parties, for a whole array of friends who claim to
have asbestos taste buds. 

Of course, I altered the traditional dishes to make them mine.
In answer to culinary purists, I feel it's important to use
authentic ingredients and remain true to original flavors and
textures, but then I like to play with the way these are put
together.

For instance, it often seems to me that Pacific Rim cooks cut
everything into small pieces and stir-fry or stew them. The
resulting dishes taste wonderful, but they often look alike. So I
take the same seasonings and the important techniques, such as
grinding and then frying the seasoning mixtures, but I use the
resulting sauce on a larger, more Western cut of meat, such as
a pork loin.

Take, for instance, a whole chicken. Instead of chopping it, I
love to make a Thai-roasted chicken by combining equal parts
of Thai red curry paste, chopped peanuts and coconut oil or
butter. Then, in the French style, I loosen the skin of the
chicken and spread the mixture under the skin on the breast
and thighs. The chicken is roasted long and slow, so the meat is
infused with that wonderful hot flavor.

In India they do the most wonderful things with lamb, often
simmering it in complex combinations of herbs, spices and
yogurt until it is as tender as soft butter. The flavors vary
incredibly, yet most Indian lamb dishes look like brown stew.
So I substitute a rack of lamb. The flavors are the same, the
technique different.

In my own defense, I will say that there are native chefs in great
restaurants all over the world doing the same thing with their
own cuisine. This is the way any cuisine, evolves.

Here are a couple of dishes from each of my hot menus,
starting with the Southwestern one, which I served to Jim and
Elena. It is the hottest of the three, and their taste buds were
lightly seared but happy.

SOUTHWEST MENU

OYSTERS SANTA FE

(4 servings)

4 ounces chorizo sausage, cooked and chilled

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

1 clove garlic, minced

3 serrano chilies, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon oregano

2 cups packed spinach leaves, washed, stems removed

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 cups coarse salt

24 fresh oysters on the half shell*

2 lemons for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the chilled chorizo into 24 thin slices. Set aside.

Place the butter in a food processor with the bread crumbs,
garlic, serranos, oregano, spinach leaves and salt. Puree.

Fill the bottoms of four pie pans with a thick layer of coarse
salt. Place the oysters, in their half shells, on the salt bed; press
them into the salt so they remain in place. Top each one with a
slice of chorizo and a heaping tablespoon of the bread-crumb
mixture. Bake for 15 minutes. Garnish each plate with half a
lemon.

* NOTE: Have the oysters opened at the seafood store the
day you serve them.

Per serving: 564 calories, 39 gm protein, 37 gm carbohydrates,
42 gm fat, 62 mg cholesterol, 20 gm saturated fat, 832 mg
sodium

TUCSON STEAK

(4 servings)

Chipotle chilies in adobo are Mexican jalapen~os that have
been smoked and dried, then cooked with onions and
seasonings. They are packed about 4 to a small can in the
cooking mixture, the adobo sauce, and can be found in Latino
stores. You may also be able to find a sauce made the same
way, sold in bottles under the brand name Bufalo. When using
the canned chipotles, puree them in a blender and pour into a
small container. I like to serve these steaks with buttery
mashed potatoes drizzled with some of the chipotle cream
sauce.

4 rib-eye steaks, about 6 to 8 ounces each

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons pureed chipotle in adobo sauce

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

4 large poblano chilies

2 bunches green onions (scallions)

1/2 pound very large mushrooms

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

Trim the steaks of any excess fat. Mix 1 teaspoon of the salt
with 1 tablespoon of the chipotle puree, the black pepper and
cumin. Rub or brush this onto the steaks. Refrigerate for at
least 1 hour.

Roast the poblanos in the broiler, turning to char each side,
until the skin is blackened and place them in a paper bag to
steam for 30 minutes. After they have steamed in the bag, hold
each one under running water and scrape off the charred skin.
Open and remove the seeds and the stem. Cut the flesh into
thin slivers. Wash the green onions, remove any wilted layers of
skin, cut off the roots and enough of the green tops to make
them 6 inches long. Wipe the mushrooms and cut into thick
slices.

At serving time, heat 2 large heavy skillets. Brush 1 tablespoon
of oil into each. When the pans are hot, grill the steaks in one
and place the poblano strips, green onions and mushrooms in
the other. Grill the steaks for about 4 minutes per side, or until
done as you like them. Set aside on a warm platter. When the
vegetables are lightly charred and heated through, remove to
the same platter. Deglaze the steak pan with the heavy cream,
scraping up the meat juices. Add the 2 remaining tablespoons
of chipotle puree and the remaining salt. Reduce by one-third.

Place each steak on a plate. Divide the chilies, green onions
and mushrooms and place atop each steak. Drizzle with the
chipotle cream.

Per serving: 591 calories, 38 gm protein, 9 gm carbohydrates,
44 gm fat, 161 mg cholesterol, 20 gm saturated fat, 958 mg
sodium

INDIAN MENU

RACK OF LAMB KORMA

(4 servings)

A rack of lamb is a well-trimmed section of 5 or 6 chops. A
frenched rack has had all its meat and fat removed and scraped
clean from the rib bones down to the meaty loin. Paper ruffles
are often put on the ends of these bones before serving.

If your budget doesn't allow for frenched racks of lamb or you
are serving hearty appetites for whom 3 or 4 little chops won't
be enough, try the same marinade with a boneless leg of lamb.
Untie the leg, marinate it in the spicy yogurt for 24 hours and
then retie it. Roast as you usually would, or preheat the oven to
450 degrees, place the boneless lamb in the oven, reduce the
temperature to 325 degrees and roast for 22 minutes per
pound.

2 to 3 lamb racks, frenched

1 cup chopped onions

2 large garlic cloves, mashed

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger root

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 cup oil

1 1/2 cups yogurt

2 teaspoons cornstarch

Trim as much fat as possible from the lamb racks. Set aside.

Place the onions, garlic and ginger in your blender or food
processor and process until smooth. Measure the coriander,
cayenne, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom
and salt into a small bowl and add to the blender. Process to
mix.

Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan. Add the
contents of the blender to the pan and cook until the oil begins
to separate around the edges of the pan and the excess
moisture from the onion has evaporated. Add 1/2 cup water to
the blender and swish it around to get all the remaining puree.
Add this to the pan and cook until the water has evaporated.
Remove from the heat and stir in 1 cup of the yogurt. Dip the
meaty portion of each lamb rack into the yogurt mixture
(leaving the rib bones clean) and place them in a bowl. Cover
and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

An hour before serving time, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Remove the lamb from the bowl and brush the racks with the
yogurt marinade in the bowl. Cover the rib bones with a piece
of aluminum foil and place the racks in a large roasting pan.
Roast for about 25 minutes to an internal temperature of 145
degrees. Remove the racks from the pan and let them sit in a
warm place for 10 minutes before slicing.

While the racks are sitting, deglaze the roasting pan with 1 cup
of water, scraping up any bits of meat. Pour into a small
saucepan. Add any remaining marinade and bring to a hard
boil. Mix in the remaining 1/2 cup yogurt with the cornstarch
and add to the pan. Bring to a boil again. Slice the racks into
individual chops and place 3 or 4 chops on each plate. Spoon
a little of the sauce over each chop.

Per serving: 516 calories, 29 gm protein, 5 gm carbohydrates,
41 gm fat, 122 mg cholesterol, 17 gm saturated fat, 310 mg
sodium

PAPAYA RICE

(6 servings)

2 cups basmati or jasmine rice

2 tablespoons butter or oil

4 green cardamom pods

3 whole cloves

3-inch stick cinnamon

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1/2 cup minced dried papaya (raisins, dried apricot or dried
pineapple may be substituted)

1 teaspoon salt

Wash the raw rice in a strainer and drain well. Heat the butter
or oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Saute the rice until it is well coated
with the oil and beginning to turn tan. Add all of the remaining
ingredients and 4 cups water. Bring to a boil. Cover the pan
and lower the heat to medium-low. Cook for 25 minutes or
until the rice is fluffy and all liquid has been absorbed.

Per 1/2 cup serving: 181 calories, 3 gm protein, 33 gm
carbohydrates, 4 gm fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat,
359 mg sodium

URBAN THAI DINNER

This is not exactly authentic Thai food. The flavors are truly
Thai, but I have combined them with European cooking
techniques.

Red and green curry paste may be made from scratch, but I
recommend that you buy them at an Asian grocery store,
where they are sold in small cans for less than $1. If you were
to make them yourself, you would probably spend two days
shopping for the ingredients.

GINGERED SEA SCALLOPS

IN RED CURRY CREAM

(4 servings)

These scallops will sit on a bed of fried spinach leaves, which
look like the finest translucent jade and make a nice crunchy
setting for the spicy scallops. Just don't make the mistake I
once did and choose only the tiny baby leaves. These will not
fry crisp, having too much water in them. Use only mature
leaves then, and be sure they are clean and dry.

If you have the luxury of grilling the scallops, they'll be even
better than sauteed. Either way, this is an incredible and spicy
first course.

The scallops may be marinated up to 48 hours ahead, The
sauce may be made up to three days ahead, and the spinach
may be fried early in the day. I use the same oil for frying the
spinach and the scallops and then I discard it.

1 pound large sea scallops

Juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger root

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 cups spinach leaves, washed and dried

3 cups oil for frying

FOR THE RED CURRY SAUCE:

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

1 1/2 tablespoons red curry paste

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)

Remove the bright white lump on the side of each scallop (it's a
tough little muscle). Combine the lime juice, fish sauce, ginger
and salt and toss with the scallops. Place in a bowl or plastic
food-storage bag and refrigerate until time to cook. Stir or
shake the bag from time to time. The scallops should marinate
for at least 24 hours.

Wash the spinach leaves well and thoroughly dry them (water
droplets will cause the hot oil to spatter). Heat the oil to 375
degrees and add a few leaves. When they are translucent,
remove and place in a baking dish lined with paper towels.
Continue until all the spinach is fried. It may sit on the counter
until serving time.

For the sauce: Combine the cream, red curry paste, sugar, salt
and fish sauce in a small saucepan. Whisk together. Bring to a
boil and then simmer for 5 minutes. The sauce may be
prepared ahead and reheated.

At serving time, if frying the scallops, reheat the oil used for the
spinach in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. The oil should
be about 1 inch deep. When the oil is hot, add about 1/3 of the
scallops, leaving space between them, and fry them on both
sides until golden, about 3 minutes. Fry the remaining scallops
in two batches. If grilling the scallops, start the fire enough in
advance to get the charcoal white-hot. Place the scallops, with
space in between, in a small-grid grill basket and grill each side
for 2 to 3 minutes.

On four salad plates, arrange layers of spinach leaves. Divide
the scallops evenly among the four plates, setting them atop the
spinach. Drizzle with red curry sauce and serve immediately.

Per serving: 402 calories, 23 gm protein, 12 gm carbohydrates,
30 gm fat, 130 mg cholesterol, 14 gm saturated fat, 1248 mg
sodium

GREEN CURRY BEEF TENDERLOIN

(4 to 6 servings)

2-to-3-pound center-cut beef tenderloin

3 tablespoons green curry paste

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

1/4 cup Thai basil leaves

2 small green Thai or serrano chilies, seeded and chopped
(optional)

1 cup coconut milk 

Remove any silverskin from the tenderloin. Mix 1 tablespoon
of the green curry paste with the butter and salt, mashing them
together with a fork. Spread over the surface of the tenderloin.
Wrap in parchment or plastic wrap and refrigerate for two
days.

About an hour before serving time, preheat the oven to 450
degrees. Measure the fish sauce, brown sugar, lemon juice and
cardamom into a small bowl. Chop together the cilantro, basil
and green chilies, if using, and set aside. 

Unwrap the tenderloin and place it in a heavy baking dish.
Roast for 25 minutes in the preheated oven. When done,
remove the meat from the oven and place it on a warmed
platter in a very warm spot. Deglaze the baking dish with the
coconut milk. Scrape the baking dish and pour the contents
into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Whisk in the remaining 2
tablespoons green curry paste. Add the brown sugar mixture
and again bring to a boil. Add the chopped cilantro, basil and
chilies, if using, and heat until just wilted. Taste. It will be very
hot and quite herbal. Adjust the seasoning with more lemon
juice or brown sugar.

Slice the tenderloin into 1 inch-thick servings and place on a
plate with some of the sauce spooned over.

Per serving: 717 calories, 66 gm protein, 7 gm carbohydrates,
45 gm fat, 195 mg cholesterol, 24 gm saturated fat, 1123 mg
sodium



Joyce Dodson Piotrowski is a restaurant owner turned
freelance writer. 

© Copyright 1997 The Washington Post Company