New Mexico Cuisine by Nancy Gerlach R.D. The cuisine of New Mexico is a unique blend of three different cultures: Native American, Mexican and European. It's our nation's oldest culinary heritage with roots which can be traced back to the Anasazi, or "ancient ones," who were the ancestors of the Rio Grande Pueblo Indians. Because of some common dishes, there is a tendency to lump the cuisines of the Southwest together, but New Mexican food is distinctly different from the foods of Arizona and Texas. When the Spanish explorers first ventured north from Mexico City in the sixteenth century and wandered into what they called Nuevo Mexico (proper translation: Another Mexico), they discovered that the indigenous Native Americans made excellent use of nearly every edible animal and plant substance available. They hunted deer, rabbit, quail, bison, and pronghorn; harvested acorns, berries, a number of herbs, mushrooms and mesquite seeds; and collected and ate various species of cactus. Centuries ago, as today, the uncultivated piñon trees produced prized nuts which are still harvested by hand. The Anasazi, and later the Pueblo Indians, depended on just a few domesticated crops: corn, beans, squash, and chiles. Although these crops were domesticated in Mexico and Central America, they had moved north to what is now New Mexico long before the Spanish arrived, so it is no surprise that these foods became the foundation of New Mexican cuisine. In the Native American culture, corn was and is the primary food plant, as well as a significant religious object. The "Corn Cuisine" of the Southwest includes red, yellow, and the distinctive New Mexico blue corn, that have all been cultivated for centuries. The corn is ground into meal and flour for use in breads and tortillas, and processed into two unique New Mexican products--posole corn and chicos. Both are used in stews along with pork and red chile, which predate the arrival of the Spanish. Posole is made with hominy corn treated with lime then dried, and chicos are dried sweet corn. Domesticated beans predate corn and were tamed about 10,000 years ago in Peru. Bolita beans were the first beans cultivated in New Mexico, but were taken over by pinto beans which have a much higher yield per acre. Bolitas, however, are still grown in the northern part of the state as they have been for many, many years. Although pinto beans are most commonly used in New Mexican cuisine, other beans are popular. The purple striated Anasazi bean, for instance, was supposedly found in a cliff dwelling, but proved to be viable and is now grown again in the state. Another early cultivated vegetable was squash. It was first domesticated in Central America about 9,000 years ago, and then spread to the north and the south. It was a staple in the diet of the nasazi and was passed down to the Navajo and Pueblo Indians who revere it so much that they depict the blossoms in jewelry. Several ancient squash varieties are still grown today in small gardens, including the blue-fruited Acoma pumpkin, the green-striped Santo Domingo squash and the Calabaza Mexicana, or long-neck pumpkin. While corn, squash, and beans are nutritious, they are rather bland by themselves and depend on chile peppers for spice. Domesticated in both Mexico and South America at least 10,000 years ago, chiles migrated northward like the other staples of New Mexican cuisine. The small early chiles were used to add heat to food, but with taming and cultivation the pods grew larger, and they came to be used for taste as well. After the Spanish began settlements in New Mexico, the cultivation of chiles exploded all over the state. Several different varieties were grown including poblanos, pasillas, serranos, and jalapeños, but the long, green New Mexican chile peppers reigned supreme. The chile crops have been raised with such dedication, that several centuries-old cultivars such as 'Chimayo' and 'Espanola,' are still grown in the same fields. In 1846 the American flag flew over the Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe, and the territory was opened to settlement by Anglo pioneers. With the new people came new food crops such as tomatoes, asparagus, onions, lettuce, apples, pistachios and pecans. Also, along with the settlers came the railroad, and with the railroad came Fred Harvey who had a profound influence on the cuisine. Through his association with the Santa Fe railroad and his lunch stands and hotels, he brought to New Mexico exotic meats, seafoods, fruits and vegetables from wherever the railroad traveled. No longer did the state have to depend solely on trade with Mexico. Recent years have seen further changes in the cuisine. The availability of foods from around the world coupled with experimentation by innovative chefs, have led to the development of what is called "New Southwest Cuisine." Some of the foundations of this cooking are the use of fresh, locally grown foods, the introduction of a number of exotic chiles, and the incorporation of indigenous crops and wild game to produce new combinations based on traditional foods. Here in New Mexico, the rich mixture of three cultures, plus the contribution of creative chefs, has produced the most distinctive of the Southwestern cuisines. Despite its long history and uniqueness, however, it is a cuisine that only recently has achieved the fame and popularity it deserves. Uncover this hidden treasure for yourself by trying some of the following recipes. Red Chile Sauce --------------- The chiles that we traditionally use for this basic sauce are the ones we pull off our ristras or strings of chiles. Ristras are not just used for decoration here, we eat these chiles throughout the year in a variety of dishes. This sauce can be used in a number of ways, as a topping for enchiladas and tacos, as a basis for stew, or anything that calls for a red sauce. 10 to 12 dried red New Mexican chiles, stems and seeds removed 1 medium onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 cup water Rinse off the chiles, place them in a pot and cover them with very hot water. Allow to sit for 15 to 20 minutes to soften. Drain and discard the water. Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until they are soft. Place all the ingredients, and the 1 cup of water, in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Strain the mixture, if desired, for a smooth sauce. Yield: 2 and to 3 cups Heat Scale: Medium Green Chile Stew ---------------- This is the beef stew of New Mexico--a basic dish with as many variations as there are cooks. It is one of the most popular dishes in New Mexico, and is certainly one of my favorites. Like all stews, it can be prepared in a variety of ways. Sometimes I make it with just pork and green chile. I like to use mild varieties of green chile because I can then add a lot and get a strong chile flavor, without it becoming too hot to eat. Add a warmed flour tortilla and you have a complete meal. 2 lb lean pork, cubed 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 6 to 8 green New Mexican chiles, roasted, peeled, stems removed, and chopped 1 large potato, peeled and diced 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 3 to 4 cups water 1/4 tsp dried oregano, Mexican preferred Place the pork in a skillet and brown it in the oil, remove the pork and place it in a kettle or stock pot. Put the onions in the skillet, adding more oil if necessary, and sauté until they are browned. Add the garlic and cook for an additional couple of minutes. Remove them from the skillet and add to the pork. Pour a little of the water into the skillet, bring to a boil, and deglaze. Pour the liquid over the pork. Add all the remaining ingredients, and simmer for 1 to 2 hours or until the meat is very tender and is starting to fall apart. Serves: 4 to 6 Heat: Hot Posole ------ Treating corn with lime to remove the tough skins was probably a technique the early Meso-American cultures passed on to the Pueblo Indians in New Mexico. This corn, called posole, is the basis of a dish by same name. A tradition during the holiday season, it is considered to bring good luck through the year if eaten on New Year's Eve. Serve the posole with additional chile sauce on the side for guests to add at their own discretion. 3/4 cup dried posole corn 1 lb pork, diced 1 to 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 4 to 6 Tbsp dried ground red New Mexican chile 1 tsp dried oregano, Mexican preferred Cover the posole with water and soak overnight. Bring the water and posole to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the kernels "pop." (It takes a couple of hours.) Add more water if necessary. Brown the meat in the oil, remove and drain. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until they are soft. Add the meat, onions and garlic to the simmering posole along with the chile and oregano. Add more water if necessary and continue to simmer until the pork is very tender and begins to fall apart. Serves: 6 Heat Scale: Medium NOTE: This recipe requires advance preparation. Calabacitas ----------- This recipe combines two Native American crops, squash and corn, with chile. One of the most popular dishes in New Mexico, it is also so colorful that it goes well with a variety of foods. 3 zucchini squash, cubed 1 cup onion, chopped 2 to 3 Tbsp butter or margarine 1 cup green New Mexican chile, roasted, peeled, stems removed and chopped 2 cups whole kernel corn 1 cup heavy cream or half & half 1/4 cup Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese, grated Sauté the zucchini and onion in the butter until the squash is tender. Add the chile, corn, and cream. Simmer the mixture for 15 to 20 minutes to blend the flavors and thicken the sauce. Add the cheese and heat until the cheese is melted. Serves: 4 to 6 Heat Scale: Medium Chicos ------ Chicos are dried roasted corn kernels and are also the name of a very popular dish in Northern New Mexico. Traditionally, the corn is dried in the hornos or Indian ovens, which gives it a smoky taste. Today, however, most of the chicos are dried in commercial ovens and lack the distinctive taste. 1 cup chicos 1 lb pork chops 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tsp oregano 2 to 3 Tbsp ground red New Mexican chile Soak the chicos in about a quart water overnight to soften. Bring the water and chicos to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for an hour. Cut the pork off the bones and cube, saving the bones. Brown the pork in the oil. Add the onions and garlic and continue to cook until softened. Add the pork, pork bones, onion, garlic, oregano, and chile to the chicos. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for an hour or until the corn and meat are tender, adding additional water if needed. Remove the bones and serve. Serves: 4 Heat Scale: Medium NOTE: This recipe requires advance preparation. Anasazi Bean Soup ----------------- Although new to many people, these colorful beans date back to the ancient, cliff-dwelling Anasazi Indians. Slightly sweeter than pinto beans, they also tend to hold their shape better when cooked. If not available, substitute pinto beans in this recipe. 1 cup dried Anasazi or pinto beans 1 lamb chop, meat diced, bone reserved 2 tsp vegetable oil 2 green New Mexican chiles, roasted, peeled, stems and seeds removed, chopped 6 cups liquid, bean water and beef broth 1 medium onion, chopped 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp epazote (optional) 1 tsp ground coriander 1/4 tsp ground cumin Cover the beans with water and soak overnight. Quickly brown the meat in the oil. Add all the ingredients, including the lamb bone, to the beans, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 2 to 3 hours, or until the beans are tender. Remove the bone, season with salt and pepper and serve. Serves: 4 to 6 Heat Scale: Mild NOTE: This recipe requires advance preparation.